Wednesday, October 11, 2006




Visiting the Xīnjiāng Autonomous Region last week, I was taken by how extremely different it is from eastern China. Whether it be the Central Asian look and sounds of the people there, the signs written in Arabic as well as Chinese (with English a distant, faltering third), or the expanse of desert ringed by unreal looking mountains of sand, rock, and then snow-capped peaks, this is not the China that most foreigners imagine. Yet despite this and the differences in language, religion, and opinions, and despite also my impression that the hodgepodge of ethnicities native to this region, particularly the Uighurs, are looked down upon by the Han majority, this is part of it. China is the far side of the world; Xīnjiāng is the far side of China. Accordingly, it represents to many Chinese what China represents to many Westerners-a distant, mysterious, exotic place. Traveling out to Ürümqi, Tiān Chí, and Turpan (Tŭlŭfān), I felt a jolt similar to, although less powerful than, the one I experienced when I first came to China in 2003. But even while still out there, I had another feeling, not a jolt so much as a steadily growing idea that I began to have a few months after my return here in 2005: China’s not as different from the United States as I once thought it was. I kept thinking of how this part of the country, in its peculiar desert beauty, looked like Arizona. And how the Tiān Shān range looked very much like pictures that I’d seen of the Rockies. Of course, China’s about as foreign as it gets, in all of the obvious ways and others that are not so visible. But the two countries are similar. If you’re willing to take the time to compare US and Chinese cities, rivers, mountains, deserts, airline and railway hubs, and any number of other things, you will find that they match up quite nicely. But this is not the only way that they are alike. I’ve also found in my time here that daily life, although different in its details, often follows a pattern close to that of the United States. This, for me, was a personal and, to some extent, relieving discovery. Before I came to China, I had planned on going to Vietnam. When I gave my notice at work and told my soon-to-be-former colleagues that I was planning on going there to live, one of them said something like, “So you want to stand in line to pick up your toilet paper, huh?” in reference to the perceived communist way of doing things. He wasn’t entirely joking. Worse, I started thinking, “What if he’s right?” In spite of myself, I visualized standing in a long line of irritated Vietnamese people and then being screamed at by some equally irritated low-level government official waving a roll of toilet paper in my face and then not giving it to me for some reason that I literally didn’t understand. I still haven’t made it to Vietnam. Maybe that’s how it is. In China, however, it isn’t. The toilet paper, toothpaste, toothbrushes, Coke, batteries, and just about everything else you can pick up at your local Walgreen’s is available here, too. And the line at the counter’s usually not too bad, either. I’ve found that many daily activities here in Nánjīng are very much like those in Boston: catching the bus, looking busy at work, figuring out what to eat for dinner, watching TV, surfing the net, getting the kids ready for bed, whatever. Sitting in a friend’s living room after dinner one night as we watched a cop show on TV, I told her that this is pretty much what people in the States do after they eat. She seemed surprised to hear it. I went on to say that life in America isn’t like the TV shows popular here on DVD and unlike the characters on Friends, people usually need to hold onto a steady job in order to keep an apartment in Manhattan. She politely listened to what I had to say and then launched into a very precise explanation of how the Umbrella Gang swung the rent. She knew her stuff. I didn’t have a chance. Eventually, I managed to crawl out of the conversation and we went back to watching the show. Nice time. Hey, I’ve got my toilet paper.

7 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Best one yet. Really interesting and informative about daily life in China along with the geography of the country. RM

3:28 AM, October 12, 2006  
Blogger Matt said...

I see that Feist, by any other name, would be as eloquent.

Then will he click on the obscure URL link, and say
'These comments I made on The China Gate.'
Old men forget; yet all shall be forgot,
But he'll remember, with advantages,
What feats he did that day.

Henry V (with some liberties)

11:48 AM, October 16, 2006  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

So that's what Feist has been up to. I'm impressed. RM

3:09 AM, October 18, 2006  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

May I ask how far away from eastern China to Xinjiang Autonomous Region. If I have a chance in my live, I also really want to go in China to see all different locals customs and practices besides sightseeing. and thanks for your picturesque description.
The only comment I want to make is that, I pretty sure people everywhere always think that America or other country from where they are with is a better place to live and work, people get impression and assumptions through TV shows, they always think that we live differently or in "heaven", so it wasn't surprised to me when your female friend made those comments. however it broke many people dreams when they leave their homes and go to other country. Because their expectations were unmet. Once they arrived and live daily lives and should know no matter of where you are going and almost everywhere the same.

2:28 AM, October 22, 2006  
Blogger Matt said...

Xinjiang is way out in the northwestern section of China. I'm not sure how many miles Urumqi is from Shanghai, but it a full two day train ride from there and is the furthest city from the sea on Earth. If you click on my Map of China link, you can get a pretty good idea of where it is in relation to everything.

As far as my friend goes, she did, and probably still does, have an image of the States that I don't think is all that unusual here, not exactly like what I described, but definitely influenced by the TV shows and movies that make it here, of which there are many (if you're looking for the first season of "Wonder Woman" at a reasonable price, come on over). If she ever goes over, I hope that it does live up to her image.

11:02 AM, October 23, 2006  
Blogger Artemis said...

This is nteresting... I remember reading a quote, the main meaning of which is that, people are 95% alike while only 5% different. I think we do need to pay more attention to the similarities but it is the differences that add to so many communications, curiosities and also misunderstandings in between. We do often tend to exaggerate the differences, I guess it's just something very natural. heh just like how foreigners know us from media and tv shows... That's not the real images of Chinese, you may have felt this :-)

BTW I've never been to Xinjiang.. But am planning to visit there as well as Tibet heh.

8:27 PM, April 01, 2009  
Blogger Matt said...

Hello Jenny,

I did a class this week that was, in part, taken from my trip to Xinjiang and my subsequent thoughts on life in China. The longer I stay here, the less different I begin to think many aspects of life are from those in the US. It's still very different, of course, but not in necessarily the same ways as I had originally thought it would be.

Xinjiang is an experience very different from everywhere else I've been in China. Try to put as much time as you can aside for it - you can do two weeks there and still just be scratching the surface.

Tibet I've never made it to.

8:10 PM, April 02, 2009  

Post a Comment

<< Home