Thursday, September 28, 2006



One early evening last week, I went to catch the bus at an unfamiliar stop near the corner of Zhōngshān Běilù and Shānxī Lù. Approaching a small cluster of people standing on a narrow median strip dividing the main street and the access road running parallel to it, I joined them and waited for a brief moment before taking a closer look around. Zhōngshān Lù is the main drag in Nanjing and I was sure that this little sliver of pavement couldn’t be the whole stop. Stepping out into the street, I saw that I was correct. In Nanjing, a typical city bus stop will have a large, illuminated sign at either end of it displaying the route numbers, street stops, and hours of service for each bus passing through. By my rough estimate, the two signs here were at least thirty yards apart, book ending several other packs of commuters. It made sense. This particular stop had at least half a dozen routes listed on its signs. If several buses were to arrive at the same time, they’d need all of that room to fit. I hadn’t seen that the stop was so long because, for some reason, my little group hadn’t even been standing within its boundaries and a tree had blocked my view. I figured that they must’ve been waiting for one of the private buses that sometimes pass by. Leaving them, I went to find a better place to stand and soon realized that the entire stop was a free zone for any bus that came through-the drivers could stop wherever they pleased. I hedged my bet and chose a place right in the middle. Speed is important in catching buses around here. The drivers stop just long enough for people to get off and if there isn’t a line forming by the front door, they’re gone with a sputter and a belch of smoke. In other words, covering fifteen yards at a very brisk walk (I refuse to give them the satisfaction of running) is no guarantee of going any further. Throw in the added challenge of having to weave through whoever’s getting off of the bus that you’re trying to get on and your odds get even worse. I waited. A bus came. Not mine. It stopped about ten yards before reaching me. People got off. People got on. Those who had picked the wrong place to wait rushed past me and into the crowd already forming by the doors. Another bus came. Again not mine. It pulled in right behind the first one, which still hadn’t left because of the group still sorting itself out there. More people scurried past, enlarging the already growing jam of commuters now squeezed into the area next to the first bus. A third bus came. My bus. It pulled in behind the second one, right where my former traveling companions were standing next to the tree. The doors opened. Still others who had guessed wrong made a hopeless dash into the fray. I didn’t bother. I watched my bus, the last to arrive, pull away, followed by the second one and then the first. I caught the next one that came in a few minutes later-it stopped fifteen yards past me. Almost everyone who had been standing near the spot where it had finally come to a halt had by now moved to the opposite end of the stop, leaving me an open path, but I still had to bang on the door for the driver to re-open it and let me on. Hanging onto the overhead bar as my bus rattled along, I was angry and depressed. Just about everybody in Nanjing has to take the bus on a fairly regular basis. Although, at first glance, it may seem ridiculously funny, having to go through this kind of obstacle course is unnecessary, inefficient, and dangerous. The fact that this is the way the system is designed to work makes it enraging. The fact that it probably won’t be changing anytime soon, because this is the way it’s always been, just makes it sad.

4 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

People make adjustments to work with 'how it is' I guess, even tho they might like to see it different. Do you think it might have something to do with just how many people have to be transported each day and that the bus drivers have to work out a system that is at least somewhat effective in getting people to and from their destinations. MA

11:04 PM, September 30, 2006  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Having experienced a bit of what you went through for this bus ride I can see your frustration with it all. I think part of the frustration is that you know there could be an easier, better, more organized way to deal with this situation but everyone just deals with it instead. But maybe they don't know an easier way because they really don't know what would make it better. does that make sense?!

8:51 AM, October 01, 2006  
Blogger Matt said...

Sorry for responding so late, I was out of town this past week. Although I blame the commuters and drivers for "playing the game" and for their (assumed) lack of initiative in trying to bring about improvement, I don't blame them that much-they operate in what they think are their own best interests, which is to be expected. I lay the brunt of it on the shoulders of the urban planners responsible for this mess. It's their job to visualize the easiest and most effective bus routes. As with human nature, I can understand mistakes-they happen. But I can't understand letting a system like this continue on in its current form. It's almost as if whoever designed the bus system never bothered to ride it to see how it works. Again, I could be missing some very big pieces of the puzzle because of my inability to read notices and papers, or to watch the local news, but from my participation and observation, this is how I see it. If any other Nanjing bus riders happen to read this and would like to shed some light on the subject, please do.

12:35 PM, October 07, 2006  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Like the picture - it adds a certain panache to the essay. RM

5:15 AM, December 17, 2007  

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